Welcome to the fashion canteen
No menu, no prices – and no nobodies. Davé is the fashion world’s best-kept secret but if you can get past the ‘full’ sign on the door and secure a top table in this tiny Chinese restaurant in Paris, you can be sure you’re at the cutting edge of style. Michael Specter talks stars and spring rolls with le patron, Davé Cheung
[...] There are more than 1,500 Chinese restaurants in Paris. As a culinary experience, Davé ranks somewhere in the top half. Nobody recommends Davé for the food, however, or the prices, which, while always high, vary according to what the owner feels like serving. Or for the ambience. Davé is dark and claustrophobic, hemmed in by quilted red walls and a velvet curtain inside the door. A tropical-fish tank, which sits in the middle of the front room, provides the only real source of light. Despite all that, Davé may be the most frequently and reverentially mentioned Chinese restaurant in France. It’s certainly the most exclusive. Except on weekends, when he does not serve lunch, the place is open every day. On a busy night during the Paris fashion collections Davé serves 100 dinners – many of them tofu and bok choy, at around €60 a head.
[...] Davé makes fake things real, too. The restaurant functions as a sort of school canteen for the nomadic denizens of the fashion world, who traipse constantly between New York, Paris, and Milan. And, just as in school, the food at Davé never matters nearly as much as the seating arrangements.
[...] There could be few greater humiliations than to be exiled behind the wall separating the front room and the back room, past the fish tank and nearly into the kitchen. Some of the most powerful people in the fashion business treat Davé with a deference that they withhold from nearly everyone except those who can provide them with a good table. ‘There are some bitchy people in the fashion world,’ the designer Marc Jacobs told me one night. ‘But nobody is stupid enough to offend Davé.’
During Paris fashion weeks, the battle for a table can become even more absurd. ‘Leo and Gisele had to stand in the street for 20 minutes a while ago,’ Davé told me, with a grin. He was referring to Leonardo DiCaprio and the model Gisele Bundchen. ‘Can you imagine that? Leo had come to introduce Gisele to moi , and he was not happy at all. But what was I supposed to do? Tell my beloved friend Helmut Newton to get up and leave? Or should I have gotten rid of John Galliano? Gisele was really cute about it. But Leo was annoyed. And, you know, I owe a lot to Leo, because without him Tobey [DiCaprio's friend Tobey Maguire] would never have come in. And now he is here all the time.’
Click here to read the fabulous, full 3,000 word article in its entirity at guardian.co.uk
[Text by Michael Specter via guardian.co.uk]